Why stop in Buenos Aires
If you're flying to Ushuaia from Europe, Russia, or North America — Buenos Aires is unavoidable. There are no direct flights to Ushuaia from outside Argentina: every route connects through the capital. And that connection isn't just a technical formality.
The flight to Buenos Aires from Moscow or Istanbul is 16–18 hours with one stop; from Madrid, about 13 hours nonstop. After a flight like that, jumping straight onto a four-hour flight to Ushuaia is a bad idea: the time difference from Moscow is 6 hours, your body doesn't have time to adjust, and you'll spend your first day in the south half-asleep.
Two or three days in Buenos Aires solve several problems at once: time to adjust to the time zone, time to unwind after a long flight, and along the way you get to see one of the most atmospheric cities in Latin America.
Two airports: EZE and AEP
The main practical thing to understand in advance: Buenos Aires has two airports, and they're on opposite sides of the city.
Ezeiza (EZE) — international, 35 km southwest of the center. This is where you arrive from abroad. The ride downtown is 40–60 minutes by taxi or Uber, about 25–35 USD at the official rate.
Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP) — domestic, right on the Río de la Plata in the Palermo neighborhood, 10–15 minutes from downtown. All flights to Ushuaia leave from here.
If you have a same-day connection — there has to be at least 5 hours between landing at EZE and the AEP departure. The drive between airports is about an hour in normal traffic; in rush hour it can stretch to an hour and a half.
A 2–3 day itinerary
Day 1: downtown and San Telmo
The first day is the hardest because of jet lag. Don't plan anything complicated.
Start at Plaza de Mayo — the country's main square. Casa Rosada (the presidential palace), the cathedral with San Martín's tomb, and the Cabildo (the colonial-era town hall) are all here. From the square head down into San Telmo — the old quarter with cobblestone streets, antique shops, and an early-20th-century feel.
If you're in Buenos Aires on a Sunday, you have to go to Feria de San Telmo, the antique market on Defensa. It stretches for 13 blocks and runs 10:00 to 17:00. People dance tango right on the street on every corner. Watch your pockets — it's a tourist spot and pickpockets work it.
Dinner — Don Julio (Palermo) or La Brigada (San Telmo). These are the best parrillas in the city, and a table at Don Julio needs to be booked at least 2–3 weeks ahead through their website. An easier alternative — La Cabrera in Palermo, usually no reservation needed, but expect a line.
Day 2: Recoleta, Puerto Madero, La Boca
Recoleta is the most aristocratic neighborhood in Buenos Aires. The main draw is Cementerio de la Recoleta, a 19th-century cemetery where Eva Perón is buried. Free entry, open 8:00–18:00.
Next door — Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (an excellent collection from Goya to Rothko, free) and Plaza Francia park with a weekend craft market.
After lunch — Puerto Madero, the former port docks rebuilt into a modern district of skyscrapers and waterfront walks. The architectural highlight is Santiago Calatrava's Puente de la Mujer. The Uruguay museum-corvette is also here — the ship the Argentine expedition used to rescue Swedish polar explorers in 1903.
If you have time — grab a taxi out to La Boca and Caminito. It's a brightly colored tourist street with painted houses, musicians, and tango dancers. Important: after sunset don't walk around La Boca — outside the tourist zone the neighborhood is unsafe.
Evening — tango. The tourist shows (El Querandí, Esquina Carlos Gardel) are flashy, expensive, and aimed at tourists. The real milongas, where locals dance — Salón Canning in Palermo or La Catedral.
Day 3: Palermo and a day trip
If you have a third day, split it in two. In the morning — Palermo: the parks (Bosques de Palermo), the Japanese Garden, MALBA (museum of Latin American art). In Palermo Soho — boutiques, cafés, street art.
The second half — a trip out of town. Two options:
Tigre Delta — an hour by suburban train. The Paraná river delta: canals, wooden stilt houses, restaurants on the water.
Colonia del Sacramento (Uruguay) — 1 hour 15 minutes on the fast Buquebus ferry across the Río de la Plata. A 17th-century colonial town, UNESCO site. You'll need your passport.
Money: the blue rate and the white rate
In Argentina there are two dollar exchange rates. The official rate (oficial) is what ATMs and official exchanges give you. The blue rate is the parallel market, and the gap can be 1.5–2 times in favor of the blue.
The best legal way to get something close to the blue rate is to wire money to yourself through Western Union. Walk into any branch downtown with your passport, pick up pesos at a favorable rate.
Visa and Mastercard are accepted most places, but they pay at the official rate — not worth it. Carry cash.
Getting around the city
Uber and Cabify work, they're cheap, they're safe. This is the main way tourists get around.
Taxis are yellow and black with meters. Be careful with street-hailed taxis near tourist sights — they sometimes rig the meter.
The Argentine schedule
This is a topic of its own and worth preparing for. Breakfast — 8–10 AM, light. Lunch — 13–15. Dinner starts at 21:00 and a lot of restaurants are simply closed before 20:30. Show up at Don Julio at 19:00 and they won't let you in, even with a reservation.
Where to stay
Recoleta — for quiet, safety, and classic style. Rates from 200 USD a night.
Palermo (Soho or Hollywood) — for a younger neighborhood, restaurants, bars. Boutique hotels from 80–150 USD.
Centro / Microcentro — the cheapest (from 50 USD), but the area dies at night.
Tip: spend the first two nights in Recoleta or Palermo.
Safety
Buenos Aires is safer than many Latin American capitals, but you still need to be careful. La Boca — daytime only, and only Caminito and the stadium. San Telmo Sunday market — watch your pockets. Constitución and Once — train station districts; don't walk around after dark.
Connection to Ushuaia
The flight from AEP to Ushuaia is 3.5 hours. Plenty of flights per day: Aerolíneas Argentinas, JetSMART, Flybondi. Book 2–3 months ahead.
If you have a same-day connection, build in at least 5 hours between landing at EZE and the AEP departure. At EZE you pick up your bags, clear customs, and head to AEP.
What to take from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia
- Argentine pesos in cash — the rate in Ushuaia is worse
- A Claro or Movistar SIM card
- Mate and a thermos — the national Argentine ritual
- Havanna alfajores and dulce de leche — gifts to take home
If you've got even 48 hours to spare — don't skip Buenos Aires. It's a different Argentina: European, loud, gastronomic. A good contrast to the silence of Tierra del Fuego waiting for you the next morning.