What Perito Moreno is and why people come

Perito Moreno glacier sits in Los Glaciares National Park in southwestern Argentina, 80 km from El Calafate. Its front wall is about 5 km wide and 60–70 m above water level (plus another ~100 m underwater). It's part of the Southern Patagonian Ice Field — the world's third-largest freshwater reservoir after Antarctica and Greenland.

The main thing that makes Perito Moreno unique: for decades it kept balance between accumulation and melting, while most glaciers on the planet are retreating quickly. In recent years the trend is shifting here too, but visually it's still living, moving, constantly cracking ice — and the sound of those cracks (like artillery) is audible from the boardwalks.

Periodically the front of the glacier reaches Magallanes Peninsula and blocks off an arm of Lake Argentino, forming an ice dam. Water rises on one side, presses, and at some point the dam crashes down — this phenomenon is called ruptura. It happens irregularly (once every 2–4 years), and the exact date can't be predicted.

Three ways to see Perito Moreno

All three options start in El Calafate and take a full day. The difference is how close to the ice you get.

1. Passarelas (viewing boardwalks) — viewing only

The simplest and most accessible option. At the glacier's front there's a system of metal boardwalks on several levels, total length about 4 km. You walk yourself, at your own pace, usually spending 3–4 hours.

Cost: park entry ticket ~$50 (for foreigners, payable in pesos at the day's rate) + round-trip transfer from El Calafate ~$30–40. Own car saves on transfer, but adds fuel and parking.

Who it suits: families with kids under 8, people with health limitations, those who don't want to spend the full budget on the glacier, or who have one day in Calafate and need to fit in something else.

What you'll see: the front wall from a distance of ~200–300 m, hear the cracking and, if lucky, see calving. You don't step on the ice with this option.

2. Minitrekking — 1.5 hours on the ice

A compromise between "watch" and "really walk." Program: transfer from El Calafate hotel (~7:30 AM), 1.5–2 hours' drive to the park, short cruise along the southern wall (about 20 minutes), landing on shore, walk across moraine to the glacier start, briefing and putting on crampons, 1.5 hours' walk on the ice in a group, descent, traditional "whisky on the rocks" with glacier ice, return to Calafate by 19:00–20:00.

Cost: $130–180 per person (activity only, without park entry ~$50). Total day budget around $200–250.

Age: strictly 8–65 years. Operator requirement, no exceptions made.

Physical load: low. You walk on the ice slowly, the guide leads the group along a prepared route, you don't cross serious crevasses. Average fitness suffices — if a person walks 2–3 hours comfortably without shortness of breath, minitrekking is within their reach.

What you'll see from inside: ice flows, small cracks, blue pools of meltwater, the general structure of the upper part. Deep seracs and large crevasses — only from afar.

3. Big Ice — 4 hours deep in the glacier

A serious program for those who want a real glacier trek. Same logistics — transfer, boat, landing — but then the group walks significantly longer and deeper. The moraine climb to the trek start takes about an hour (with ~150 m gain), then 4 hours on the ice itself: you cross several ice fields, walk between seracs, peek into major crevasses (under guide supervision), see glacier "wells" (moulins).

Cost: $250–350 per person + park entry ~$50. Full day budget — $300–400.

Age: 18–50 years. Upper age — strict, no medical certificates required, but if you look older — they may not let you in.

Physical load: medium-high. The approach via moraine and the climb itself — about 350 m gain over the day, plus 4 hours in crampons with short stops. If you walk day-hikes of 15–20 km with a pack comfortably — Big Ice is enjoyable. If your last hike was 5 years ago — choose minitrekking.

What you'll see: the real internal structure of the glacier. This is no longer a "walk on ice," it's a trek in an ice landscape.

How it looks as one day

For minitrekking and Big Ice the program structure is similar:

  • 07:00–07:30 — pickup from El Calafate hotel
  • 09:30 — arrival at the park, entry payment
  • 10:00 — short visit to passarelas (30–40 min, view from above)
  • 11:00 — transfer to the Bajo Las Sombras dock
  • 11:30 — boat to the south glacier wall
  • 12:00 — landing, walk to trek start
  • 12:30–14:00 — minitrekking on the ice (or 12:30–16:30 for Big Ice)
  • 15:00 (mini) / 17:00 (Big Ice) — return boat, snack (your own)
  • 17:30 / 18:30 — depart for Calafate
  • 19:30 / 20:30 — return to hotel

Lunch isn't included — bring sandwiches, nuts, water (1.5 L minimum). Hot tea in a thermos — a big plus.

Operator: Hielo y Aventura

Going on the Perito Moreno ice is licensed to only one company — Hielo y Aventura. It's a monopoly, and no tricks here: any agency selling "glacier trek" eventually takes you to them.

When to go

Season — October to April, peak December–February (southern summer). May–September passarelas are open, but minitrekking and Big Ice don't run: ice is dangerous, weather unstable.

  • October–November: cool (+5...+12°C), few people, prices slightly lower.
  • December–February: up to +18°C in the day, ideal weather and peak tourist flow. Book minitrekking/Big Ice minimum 1–2 weeks ahead.
  • March–April: golden autumn in Patagonia, forests turning yellow around the glacier, fewer people, weather still mild.

What to bring

Crampons and harness are issued on site. Everything else — your own: warm jacket, fleece, thermal underwear, trekking pants, stiff trekking boots (for crampons, sneakers won't work — rental $15–20), hat, gloves, sunglasses, SPF 50+ cream, small daypack with water and food.

Is it worth the full day

Short: yes. Perito Moreno isn't "look and go," it's a full, packed day. If you're flying to Patagonia and spending 2 nights in Calafate — one day on the glacier is mandatory, and better take minitrekking or Big Ice, not just passarelas. The difference in experience between "watching the glacier from boardwalks" and "standing on the ice" — is huge.